Time to tickle those taste buds!

Between devious monkeys and lost toenails, I’ve failed to mention Malaysia’s one true indulgence. More fanatical than their passion for Manchester United, more fervent than their infatuation with knock-off Coach bags and yes, even more captivating than their karaoke craze. Malaysians are irrevocably in love with food – and rightfully so. The fusion of cultures lends way to a tantalizing array of dishes that tickles the taste buds of any food enthusiast. This one deserves a post all on its own.

The blue energy in me wanted to structure this entry into breakfast, lunch and dinner, but the Malaysian diet has no structure, no pattern, no method to the madness. They just eat, all the time. Alas, you cannot blame them. Just take a look at what’s on the menu…

Side note: I apologize in advance if this makes your mouth water!

Traditional Malay Food
Whether in the heart of KL or the outskirts of Subang Jaya, you’re bound to find Nasi Lemak – it’s rice steamed with coconut milk and garnished with nuts, cucumbers and boiled eggs. It’s a staple breakfast item but also a welcomed lunch or dinner meal. No structure, lah!

Another heavy weight on the food scene is Roti canai – roti bread served with daal and fish curry. I tend to fancy its sweet counterpart – Roti paper, aka the Harry Potter Sorting Hat.

My favourite meal to date was at the Pasar Manam (night market) in Kampung Baru, KL. Think the CNE, flea market and a hundred garage sales all rolled up into a vibrant hive of commercial activity – that’s the night market. It’s a shopper’s paradise! If the charm of pirated DVDs and fake Gucci sunglasses are not enough to draw you in, the smell of barbequed chicken drizzled in peanut sauce and fried bananas will definitely get you. Guaranteed. For the more adventuresome, there is always fried pigeon!

Comfort Food
When home feels like it’s light years away, there’s always the familiar feel of Burger King, Starbucks and McDonalds. But even they have their own Malaysian twist. Chili sauce is a given, you must make a special request for ketchup. Fast food takes twice as long and is three times more expensive as the traditional Malay food. And Daddy, much to your dismay, some restaurants charge extra for ice!

I do have a weekly splurge that racks incredibly high on my list of expenses – peanut butter. A small jar costs the equivalent of four Malay meals. Waaah!

As divine as the food is here, nothing compares to Nanima’s food back home…

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, NANIMA!

P.S. The debate over Nanima’s actual date of birth is as controversial as the question ‘who is the favourite Premji child?’ (…and of course, Baby Ma’s opinion matters most on the latter dispute.) Since it’s May 28th here and May 27th right now in Toronto, I figure we’ve got it covered this year. We love you, Nanima!

A Little Taste of Paradise

I just celebrated my 2 week anniversary in Malaysia. What better way to celebrate than a weekend getaway to paradise! And by paradise, I really mean Palau Pangkor in Perek. Lonely Planet describes Palau Pangkor as the girl-next-door of beaches in Malaysia. If Pangkor is the girl next door, I never want to move!

The weekend getaway began on Friday evening after work. I met up with my Dutch travel buddies – Tessa, Arwen and Patrick – and boarded a bus from KL. The 4-hour bus ride out of Selangor to the state of Perek turned into a 6 hour adventure, as the bus decided to leave 2 hours late. Gotta love Malaysian time!

We stayed the night in a hostel in Lumut and then boarded a ferry to Pangkor Island on Saturday morning. Palau Pangkor is only 8 sq km but is bequeathed with jungles, fisheries and my sole purpose of going there, gorgeous beaches!


We lacked the courage to tackle the hilly terrains on motorbikes and instead opted to hire a taxi to tour the island. Be warned, I fully intend on riding a motorbike at least once before I leave Malaysia. But really, what’s the worst that could happen? I lose another toenail?! On that note, I must say with much regret that I lost another toenail this weekend. At least, it’s on the other foot this time. Mommy and Daddy – you’ve always said life is about balance, right?

We stopped over at the Dutch forts (appropriately enough!) and a Chinese temple with a miniature version of the Great Wall of China. Later that afternoon, we lounged on the beach of Teluk Batik and watched the sunset. Incredible. Teluk Batik was mainly populated with locals from neighbouring areas. Swimming with Malays is definitely an experience! The cultural expectations dictate Malaysian women wear long pants, long sleeve shirts and head coverings while swimming. And here we were in bikinis!


We spent the rest of the night at the hotel playing cards while listening to locals engage in their favourite past time – karaoke. They even sang Kuch Kuch Hota Hai. I was incredibly tempted to join in. Nasreen, you would have been proud!


On Sunday, we spent the day at Coral Beach. Just imagine – white sand, blue-green water, completely deserted. Our own paradise.


It was incredibly difficult to leave Palau Pangkor on Sunday evening. I think the toughest part was knowing that we could never really come back. You can visit a place again but it’s never quite the same. People and places are constantly changing, evolving with time. Certainly makes you savour each moment...



I arrived back in Subang Jaya on Sunday night – one less toenail, a heck of a lot darker and filled with amazing memories from the weekend!

Monkeys, Elephants and Roosters…oh my!

In Hamilton, when in need of a study break, you go play basketball. In Malaysia, you visit caves and sacred shrines! Here are some of the cool adventures I’ve had over the past few days.

Look-Out Point
KL is a dynamic city filled with everything from bustling night markets, crowded mamaks (outdoor restaurants) and a buzzing nightlife. Masjids and museums contribute to its rich cultural sphere while towering skyscrapers and Gucci and Prada stores infuse the city with a hint of modernity. Tourists hungry to see the city pay an arm and a leg to go up the KL tower – the fifth tallest tower in the world. Sometimes the best things in life really do come for free. We drove on winding roads up the mountain and then climbed what seemed like a bajillion stairs to get to a look-out point in Ampang. The view of KL was spectacular. Absolutely breath-taking.

Side note: KL has a peculiarly large number of stairs cases. Forget about gym memberships – just come to Malaysia and you’ll accomplish that New Year’s resolution in no time!

Batu Caves
No Shayne, not the nah-nah-nah Batman Caves (…although it did seem like the Batmobile would suddenly appear!) The Batu Caves are 400 million years old and are actually one of the most sacred Hindu shrines in the world. In order to get to the cave you must, yes you guessed it, climb a bajillion stairs. 272 stairs to be exact. Each stair is numbered – perhaps, so you can plan your pit stops along the way?!

The caves were impressive to say the least. Dark and mysterious, letting in only pockets of sunlight. By my inquiry-deduced logic and years of Warner Brothers conditioning, I figured the caves would house bats. But no sirry bob. No bats, just monkeys. I speculate it’s one of those ‘when you hear hoofbeats think of a zebra’ type of puzzles. The Batu Caves were filled with monkeys – and not just normal monkeys but monkeys with an attitude. Monkeys who prey on unsuspecting tourists snatching water bottles, cameras, sunglasses…really anything in sight. I survived 2 near monkey attacks. Let it be known that I have absolutely no inclination to ever go back to the Batu Caves again!

A Thousand Dragons
After experiencing a traditional Hindu shrine, we then ventured to Thean Hou Temple, also known as the Temple of a Thousand Dragons. The entire place was ordained with Chinese lanterns and dragons. Beautiful!

Kuala Gandeh Elephant Conservation
I must say that after experiencing the wrath of monkeys, I was a tad hesitant to embrace other forms of wildlife again. Not only did I see elephants but I fed them, rode them and swam with them too. It was the most incredible experience!

More adventures to come. Stay tuned!

Who needs toenails in Malaysia anyway?

It’s been nearly a week since I arrived in Malaysia. It is so radically different from everything I’ve ever known. Lonely Planet does not do justice to the sights, sounds and smells of this beautiful country.

Malaysia is a Muslim country comprised of three distinct groups – the Malays, Chinese and Indian. It is not uncommon to be on one street and see people in full coverings eating Roti and daal and then hop over to the next street and see hanging chickens.

The juxtaposition between traditional and modern is incredible. I was walking along a nearby street last night – it was dirty (the sewage systems are all above ground here) and bustling with people everywhere. Guess what music I heard playing from a nearby sari stall? “Heartless” by Kanye West! Kanye West in Malaysia! Believe it or not, Kanye West does not even make the billboard charts here. The hottest acts around are Taylor Swift, Celine Dion and the Bee Gees. Teenaged boys here proudly know the words to “Stayin’ Alive” and “My Heart Will Go On” - and they find every opportunity to show you.

I think I’ve adjusted fairly well to life out here. But there are some things that I’m certain will take years to figure out:

Driving
Think the streets of New York combined with the Don Valley Parkway…but twenty times worse! First off, they drive on the wrong side of the road. I keep getting into the car on the driver’s side by accident (like I would ever attempt to drive in this country…ha!). There’s traffic everywhere, all the time. Motorbikes seem to think the rules of the road don’t apply to them. No one signals. Everyone honks.

You’d think with so many cars, the parking system would be impeccable. But this is definitely not the case. There are no parking lots in Malaysia, which means that everyone parallel parks along the street, in the middle of the street…really, wherever they please. I have enough trouble parking in Toronto. There is absolutely no way I could navigate the streets of Malaysia – I’m not that crazy!

Time
I thought 21 years of experience with Khoja time would give me a leg up in this area. But nothing can quite prepare you for Malaysian time. If you’re supposed to meet someone at 6pm for a dinner date and by 8pm he still hasn’t shown up, fret not! He has not stood you up and he is by no means a jerk – he is simply Malaysian. I wonder if I can use this excuse for handing in late assignments at school…

Manglish
Malay is the official language of Malaysia however, English is widely spoken. And then there is a Manglish – a sort of hybrid that sometimes resembles Latin more than it does the other two. Every sentence ends with the word “laah”. “Don’t want, laah”. “Please, laah”. “It’s so hot, laah”. That’s my new found mission for Malaysia: figure out what “laah” means. Not a bad idea, eh?

The schools are influenced by the UK educational system so many of the words used are British. People ‘fetch us’ from workshops; we live in a ‘flat’, not a house; we don’t leave, we ‘depart’, students attend ‘uni’ (why use 10 letters when you can just use 3, right?) Sadly, no one speaks in a British accent…


Something pretty consequential happened yesterday. I may look back at this one day and see it as a defining point in my life. My big toenail fell off! It was an inevitable end to a basketball injury that happened last month. But really, who needs toenails in Malaysia anyway?!

Mills, Thode and Other Tales from our Flat!

I am writing this entry from my flat in Malaysia. It’s incredibly hot and humid, pushing nearly 40 degrees Celsius. I straighten my hair at night and with the humidity, end up with perfect curls in the morning – it’s fantastic!

The flat is starting to feel more like home. It’s a simple house with basic amenities. There’s no air conditioning, no laundry, no hot water. But it does have character, history and wonderful people – and it’s beginning to fill with the most amazing memories. Smiles and laughter top running water any day!

The view of our flat from the outside.

My bedroom.

The other interns that I live with are the epitomy of nice. There are currently 5 of us living in the house -- Ingrid from the Netherlands, Hana and So-Young from Korea and Soraya from Austria. We're expecting 2 more interns from Canada this week and a couple more next month.

Ingrid, Hana, Soraya and So-Young, after a night swim at a nearby pool. The pool is conveniently located in the heart of the student housing complex, right beside Taylor's University College. A swimming pool in the student slums, seriously?!

Ingrid is etching to go to the world renowned jungle in Perek. If you can’t go to the jungle, then why not bring the jungle to you? If Mohamed can’t go to the mountain, then you bring the mountain to Mohamed, right? (edit: Mommy, did I finally use this in the right context?). Our flat has become home to an extraordinary bunch of creatures. We wake every morning to the sound of howling dogs and screeching crows. There’s also a white cat that has staked his territory in our front yard and a lizard that has developed a liking towards our living room. I’ve named them Mills and Thode, respectively, after the libraries at McMaster. Mosquitoes and flies are everywhere! So long as there are no deer…

I will be delivering my first two HIV/AIDS workshops tomorrow. The first one is at a secondary school in Klang, which is about 40 minutes away from Subang Jaya and the second is at a college in Kuala Lumpur. Super duper excited!

The Day I Followed the Sun...

Hello, from Malaysia! As you know, I’m doing an HIV/AIDS internship this summer in Subang Jaya, Malaysia. Most of you also know that the single most terrifying part of the experience for me was just getting here. A 15 hour flight to Hong Kong, then a 4 hour flight to Kuala Lumpur then tacking the KL public transit system to get to the town of Subang Jaya. Far is driving to Roshima’s house. Flying halfway across the world…simply petrifying!

I did indeed make it safely, and quite effortlessly too. I keep wracking my brain as to how time flew by so quickly (no pun intended!) For future reference, I’m hoping to patent this strategy and sell it to any student stuck in a 3 hour evening lecture, where time seems to stop altogether. I’d be a millionaire! Phase 2 of this ingenious strategy is to find Prince Charming and settle down in a castle somewhere far far away...

I’m convinced the passing of time was due to the movie selection provided by Cathay Pacific. From Bridewars to the Lord of the Rings to an array of Bollywood flicks (surprisingly none of which I had heard of -- incomprehensible given my extensive background in the genre!), it took me half the flight to figure out what to watch. The paradox of choice.

Or perhaps, time passed by so quickly because of the sheer amount of food provided by the airline. Every hour, an attendant came by with something to eat – pasta, chicken and rice, cup noodles, banana bread, chocolate biscuits, an apple. You’d think the asian population would be beyond obese by now. The best part was that it was served by a flamboyant male airline attendant with perfectly shaped eyebrows and very tight pants. Brilliant.

By hour seven, I had resorted to playing a new game. It was affectionately known as the “count the number of swine flu masks game”. I actually deliberately got out of my seat and toured the aircraft just to get a better estimate. I lost count after the eighteenth mask. The swine flu scare also necessitated my temperature be checked before I could clear immigration in Kualu Lumpur. I passed with flying colours – if there were a grading system for passing a fever test, I’d get a 12 hands down!

Daddy-o, I pulled a you! There was this super cool view of outside from the aircraft – some sort of nifty camera that passed real-time images of the surroundings to your personal tv monitor. Costa Fortuna boat camera reprised, really. I checked at hours 2, 4 and 6…the screen was completely white, inevitably because of the clouds. I didn’t bother to check again at hour 8!

I think it really boils down to one thing – the sun. With the length of the flight and the 12 hour time difference, I left Friday morning and reached Hong Kong on Saturday afternoon, totally bypassing the night. I followed the sun and it followed me for 15 splendid hours…it was beautiful! Shakespeare once wrote, “…and it must follow, as the night of the day…” Clearly, Shakespeare’s never travelled to Malaysia..

The rest of the trip flowed seamlessly. I was picked up at the train station and taken to the trainee flat. There, I met two interns from Korea, one from Austria and one from the Netherlands – all of whom I have the distinct pleasure of working with this summer.

At this, I shall say good night! Or if you’re in Toronto, good day! Or in London, good evening! Either way...

HAPPY MOTHER’S MOMMY!!